Before treatment
Condition Before Treatment
The coat was in good structural and aesthetic condition. There were fixed creases in the body, as well as minor damages to the lining, one button loop, and the tapestry roundrels. The fineness of the roundrels caused concern for longterm hanging.
Man’s Imperial Surcoat
China
1765-1820, Jiaqing or Daoguang Period
Philadelphia Museum of Art
Silk with copper-alloy buttons and metal-wrapped thread
This man’s surcoat is made of dark blue plain weave silk and lined with yellow silk damask. It opens down the front and closes using five round cast yellow metal (likely brass) buttons and dark blue silk button loops.
The coat is constructed from two pieces that drape over the shoulders. It is decorated with four identical slit tapestry roundrels (kesi) in silk and metallic thread on a dark blue ground.
Stitch Stabilization
In order to support the roundrels on the shoulders for prolonged hanging display, an additional silk lining was inserted between the existing lining and the shell of the coat. While this did require partial removal of stitches to access between the two layers, the lining and therefore the stitching holding it in place are not original.
A yellow silk support that matches the lining was selected, as it is partially visible through the tapestry. It was stitched in place using rows of running stitches. Where necessary, it also acted as an underlay for stitch stabilization of tears in the tapestry. These were stabilized using couching stitches.
Left shoulder roundrel stitch diagram
After treatment, on display
Condition After Treatment
The coat is now in excellent condition. The creases are reduced, and all torn or frayed areas have been stabilized. The roundrels on the shoulders are reinforced with a silk lining to protect the tapestry during hanging.
Images courtesy and copyright of the Philadelphia Museum of Art